My fact-finding trip to Ireland was a success. I have returned home better-informed, thanks to hands-on research experience in all sorts of repositories as well as discussions with researchers, librarians, archivists, and administrators. The result is a store of useful information for my writing and lecturing, and the added bonus of progress in the research into my maternal grandmother's family.

There was little to divert attention from the timetable I set out in advance. The weather was bad enough to keep me happily researching in libraries and archives every working day.

Travel
Several readers sent messages after my February article on planning the trip—my thanks to all who offered advice. I was warned about the weather and about the hazards of traveling on the cut-price airlines. I have been on winter research trips in the past, so I knew to take layers of clothing but I have never seen as much snow. I had to buy an extra sweater and a better pair of gloves.

As for traveling on Ryanair and EasyJet, it is all right if you can put up with the restrictions, lack of seat assignments, and the consequences when a flight is cancelled. I won't do it again because of the lack of airline support. My 9 a.m. Belfast to Stansted flight was cancelled due to fog at Belfast International Airport; options were to wait for the next available space on a flight to London (the next day) or fend for myself. In the end I found an expensive alternative, a British Midland flight out of Belfast City Airport mid-afternoon.

I have nothing but praise for the bus service in Ireland and in Northern Ireland. Times of buses within Dublin and to other towns were frequent and fares reasonable. Getting around Dublin I had a package of five one-day travel cards for an average price of three euros each day. Going from place to place was easy, and my trip to Kilkenny was a real bargain because same-day return tickets are cheaper. Going from Londonderry to Belfast, I caught a newly added service and was the only passenger in the bus the whole way.

Genealogy
You can never replace the experience gained onsite. This statement of the obvious seemed especially true in Ireland and in the smaller communities where I was delightfully surprised by the content of local library collections. I went to Kilkenny and Cavan not because of any genealogical connections but to see local facilities. The choices were partly based on my itinerary and partly on what I found online about libraries. The Cavan library lists some of its resources online and the Kilkenny library resources are summarized online as well.

I also recommend you visit the Kilkenny Archaeological (note the spelling) Society library. It could keep you busy for a month or more.

I have examined a great variety of Irish sources on film in the Family History Library in Salt Lake City. Some of these—the indexes and volumes of the Registry of Deeds are one example—will be easier to use in future because I have handled the originals on location. So, I pass along this bit of advice; even when familiar with a set of records from microfilm or microfiche copies, look at the original whenever the opportunity arises.

Genealogists are unable to resist buying books, maps, CDs, and anything that contributes to their family history. I browsed in the National Library shop in Dublin, in heritage centers in Kilkenny and Cavan, and in any bookshop open as I walked along. In Londonderry I found a wonderful place—Foyle Book Shop (not to be confused with the large and similarly named "Foyle's" in London). It is on Magazine Street next to the wall. The Ireland and history sections are extensive and it would have been easy to buy a dozen books had I not been very conscious of limited luggage space. I settled for three small items, one a collection of articles about the Ordnance Survey and the mapping of Ireland.

There is much to be gained from talking to others, and it is even more important when trying to adjust quickly to new circumstances. In Dublin, local professionals at the National Archives and the National Library are ready to offer advice. In no time at all, I was finding my way around probate indexes and locating the correct microfilm of Catholic registers. Take time to tour around these sites for more information about collections and services.

Afterwards
Looking back, two things stand out. First is the friendly reception everywhere I went in Ireland and Northern Ireland. Second is an increased awareness of the possibilities in Irish family history research. My much-improved knowledge of records, local history, and the situation “on the ground” enhances not only my teaching and writing but also the chances of success with my own research.

Sherry Irvine, CGRS, FSA (Scot) is an author, teacher, and lecturer specializing in English and Scottish family history. She is the author of Your English Ancestry (2nd ed, 1998) and Your Scottish Ancestry (1997) and she is a regular contributor to several journals including Genealogical Computing. Since 1996, she has been a study tour leader, course coordinator, and instructor for the Institute of Genealogy and Historical Research at Samford University. She teaches online for the family history program of Vermont College and has lectured at conferences in Canada, the United States, and Australia. She is past president of the Association of Professional Genealogists.